Guinea Pig Care
Guinea pigs are great pets for those looking to try a larger mammal, but aren't ready for the type of commitment a
Important Facts:
* They grow to be around 10 inches long and weigh about 2-3 lbs.
* They're very social and generally happier with a companion, preferably same sex or neutered.
** If you get opposite sex pairs and keep them fertile, you will have many, many guinea pigs very soon.
* They usually live about 4 to 5 years, but can live up to 10 years.
* They make very tame, friendly pets, which, if handled correctly when young, will rarely bite or scratch.
* They are strict herbivores, meaning they do not eat meat.
* They require a good amount of space, though generally live in a cage
* They don't bite, but they might nibble on your food-scented finger.
* Although generally quiet animals, guinea pigs can make a lot of noise sometimes (day or night)
** The high pitch squeak is made whenever they are excited whether scared or happy
** They make a purring sound for general enjoyment
* Their heart rate is between 240-350 beats per minute.
* Their body temperature is around 99 to 103
* They breathe about 40-150 times a minute.
* They startle easy. If scared, they will often freeze for long periods of time or dart around in every direction.
* They do not get along with other rodents, so housing them with a hamster or gerbil is a bad idea. And although dogs or cats can be trained to accept them, they often see them as prey, so be careful.
* Their teeth are open-rooted, which means that they are always growing.
* Try buying guinea pigs at shelters and rescues before going to pet stores. Often times guinea pigs at pet stores are sick, and pet stores are less likely to know the current health status of the guinea pigs.
* Contrary to common belief, two or more male guinea pigs will not necessarily fight with each other, especially if they are introduced at a young age. It depends on more on their personalities rather than genders.
Essentials
Before bringing your new guinea pig home, there are a few necessary items that you will need right away. You don't want to get home, all excited about your new pet, and have no idea what to do with it. Be sure to go through this list so you know what you're missing. Buying the right cage and food is important when making your new guinea pig comfortable in its new surroundings. Knowing the right equipment to buy will help your pet live a longer, healthier life, making it a much more enjoyable pet.
How to Care for Them
* Clean cage weekly, at least. Guinea pigs tend to be messy with their cages, so cleaning them out on a weekly basis is incredibly important to the health of your pet.
*Guinea Lynx, a medical and care guide for guinea pigs, provides a detailed description on
how to trim your pet's nails yourself.
* Pick them up by bringing one hand underneath them and putting the other on top, to stabilize them. If you're consistently gentle, they'll be very willing to play. Let them sniff you first and give them a chance to approach you.
** When handling young pigs, put a towel on your hand just in case. Their bowels aren't so sophisticated and you don't need that kind of mess on your hands.
** Handling them when they are young will make them much more friendly as they get older. Like a lot of pets, they are fearful of the unfamiliar.
* If it is lethargic, not eating, scratching too much, or its nails or teeth seem too long, take it to the vet. Common diseases include respiratory infections or diarrhea.
* If you leave a pan in a corner of their living quarters, they can be trained to use it as a bathroom, but they're not infallible.
* Don't lose them in your backyard. You can try to lure them back with food sounds, but you'll most likely never find them again.
* They're bad with distance. Don't let them jump.
* If one guinea pig dies, try to replace it quickly or its partner will be very lonely (No joke). If you can't, a guinea piganimal'>stuffed animal or a mirror could help keep the survivor company.
** Try to introduce the new member in a neutral territory with lots of food.
* It's a bad idea to keep a rabbit and a guinea pig together, even if you've heard that other people do it.
Feeding
* Feed them in the morning with
hay in the evenings. Change the water every morning.
* Guinea pig pellets should be the backbone of their diet.
** If they get too fat, give fewer pellets.
** Mixes with dried fruit are not as healthy as the pellet-only mixes.
* Like primates (that's us!) and unlike all other mammals, guinea pigs don't metabolize vitamin C from the sunshine. This means you need to feed them lots of vitamin C.
** If the pellets have vitamin C in them, keep them in the fridge so they don't get depleted of their nutrients.
** If you can sneak a
vitamin C powder into the water, go for it. But make sure the pigs drink it and that the powder or tablet is vitamin C only. Some vitamin drops have other minerals that can be potentially toxic to guinea pigs.
** Vegetables with lots of vitamin C are the best way to go.
About.com says to feed them, "kale, spinach, turnip greens, parsley and
dandelion greens... carrots, carrot tops, and just about any other fruit or vegetable." It is best to choose greens that are high in vitamin C and low in calcium.
* Hay is essential to the diet.
Timothy hay is the best, not straw.
* Let them graze on your lawn in the summer.
* Introduce the fresh fruits, vegetables, and other plants to them when they're young. When they're older, they may be reluctant to experiment.
* Don't be surprised if they eat their green feces. These droppings are highly nutritious. This process is called coprophagy.
* Do NOT substitute rabbit, hamster, or gerbil pellets for guinea pigs. They require different nutrients.
