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Chemical Peels & Exfoliants

Chemical exfoliants are an intense variety of exfoliant for the face that work by breaking up and shedding the outermost layers of the skin to reveal younger, healthier skin beneath. It can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne scare and may improve mild skin discoloration. It is very important to note that chemical peels, while perfectly safe, are NOT for everyone. Because they involve the application of strong chemicals to delicate facial skin certain people should avoid using these products, namely those with active acne, sensitive and/or fragile skin. Also note that chemical peels are best suited for those with light to medium skin, and less suited for dark skin. If you have any doubts about whether a chemical peel is right for you, consult your dermatologist.

Chemical Peel Types

There are three levels of chemical peel: superficial, medium and deep. Usually deep and medium chemical peels are done under the care of a professional dermatologist since the formulas are very concentrated and result in a long recovery period (from one week to over a month), while superficial peel kits for ataging treatments cannot offer. For anyone with severe scarring, discoloration or deep wrinkles, a professional treatment would be best.

How Chemical Peels Work

Chemical peels are applied directly to the skin, usually in liquid, gel or cream form. Once applied they begin to break up the top layers of the skin. In the following hours or days (depending on the product's strength) you will notice some redness and/or peeling as the dead skin comes off. The more powerful the treatment and the higher the concentration of chemicals, the deeper down into the skin the product can reach. AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) or BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are the basis of a chemical exfoliant. In relatively low chemical concentrations they can be used on a daily basis (around 4%) whereas 8% to 10% is common for a mild home peel to be used once a week. Anything less than 4% is not effective as an exfoliant. * Glycolic acid, a type of fruit hydroxy, is found in most at-home chemical peels. It is the strongest type available for a moderate to strong superficial peel. * Lactic acid is a milk-derived acid that helps retexturize the skin and stimulate cell renewal. * Salicylic acid, commonly found in acne medications and topical products, also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and is usually quite mild.

Choosing a Chemical Peel

# '''Check the ingredients''' to see the percentage of AHA included in the product. If you are using a peel for the first time, work up slowly and gradually increase the percentage of chemicals as you find the right level of exfoliation for your skin. Know that the more concentrated the treatment, the deeper the chemicals can penetrate into the skin, sloughing off more dead cells and erasing more wrinkles. # '''Understand the risks.''' Chemical peels can cause redness, irritation and peeling. The more potent the product, the more down time you will have to recover. On this note, always do a spot test before applying a product to the face to check for tolerance. It's also best to test a product for the first time on a Saturday night when you know you'll have at least a day to recover in case the product is too strong and leaves you looking red.

Quick Tips

* After using an AHA product for awhile at high percentages, your skin will develop a threshold. Try switching to a different type of acid, say from glycolic to salicylic. * AHAs should not be used both morning and night when they have a very high percentage of AHA. Alternate with other antioxidant or anti-aging products to avoid irritation and dryness. * Always use sunscreen when using AHA products as they increase the skin's sensitivty to the sun.

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